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2001-11-26 - 7:17 p.m.

Beautiful Feeling

My favorite building in the world so far is the Pantheon in Rome. My first night in Italy was spent eating dinner in front of its illuminated facade, as though I were part of the feast in Greenaway's "Belly of an Architect." For me, though, its real beauty is inside, as shown in this photo...

The building, built as a place to worship all gods, had its surfaces defaced as the decorations celebrating the gods were stripped from it. Today, most of its alcoves and ledges are bare, with a few Christian statues and relics scattered throughout. Somehow, despite the building's suffering, it remains an immensely beautiful, peaceful and spiritual place.

My first entrance into the Pantheon was marked with the smell of incense. Soon, a line of priests made their way around the interior, singing, chanting, swinging the incense burner. Their voices swirled around the dome, out through the hole in the middle into the Roman sky.

I spent an hour there that first visit, running my fingers over the smooth dark marble, squatting down and leaning against a column and retreating into my head.

Over the past few weeks, I've wished I was in Rome again so I could find some solace in the Pantheon. I'd love to have the tranquility of this place wash over me. Instead, I've found solace in my friends, and their friends. Going out in groups, and staying in with friends, making the most of each day. Living each day as though it could be my last.

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