2001-12-15 - 10:00 a.m. roman holiday redux You may recall my rant about changes over at epinions, and my vow to start archiving my favorite writings from there on this site. Here's the 1st item in that program, my review of my visit to Rome this Spring. Note that Rome has become my second favorite city in the world, due in large part to my personal connection with the Pantheon. * * * * * * * * * * * My Roman Holiday took place in late April and early May of 2001. Since I flew in and out of Rome, I both started and ended my trip to Italy in the Greater Rome area. In planning for this trip, I studied many Web sites and food magazines, and the National Geographic and ACCESS Rome Guides. For booking and researching off the beaten track accommodations, I used Travel Italy and Guest in Italy plus the now defunct concierge service to which my company provided employees access. Knowledge of some Italian phrases might have been nice, but most Romans I encountered spoke English and didn�t want to hear me trying to speak Italian. Surviving in Rome The Access guide was incredibly useful to have on hand once I arrived in Rome, as were the MapEasy map and guide and the Streetwise Rome laminated map. The Streetwise maps are laminated, making them hard to destroy; The MapEasy maps include drawings of the buildings and list restaurants, shops, and hotels which makes it easy to find where you are or where you can get something to eat in a hurry. The tourist information booths located throughout Rome within the City walls have helpful, friendly staff and a free map that was very easy to use -- both of which came in handy when I was trying to locate Via Giustiniani to see the Caravaggio exhibit. If you plan on taking lots of photos, be sure to bring your wide-angle lens and a collapsible tripod; I didn�t bring my tripod or extra lenses and regretted it immediately. As for transportation, although buses and taxis are easy to find, Rome is really best seen by walking around. There is an interesting interplay between the pedestrian, scooter, and small car traffic unlike any other city I�ve visited. Jaywalking is frequently the only way to get across the street, and the honk of a horn is more of a �hello� or a �I�m here� sort of greeting, rather than the aggressive action it is in the U.S. Be sure to bring comfortable shoes (I wore my Fluevogs with their Satan Resistant soles almost every day), drink lots if bottled water, and do a few weekend leisurely walks at home to prepare for all the walking you�ll do once you get here. The weather was mild, but there was a half day of rain, so bring a sweater and a waterproof jacket or an umbrella. At the time, I felt silly using up valuable backpack space for these items, but I'm glad I had them. A jacket with lots of pockets also comes in handy. Food & Lodging Condotti 29 Palio Bianco Suite was home base for my time in Rome. I could've stayed someplace a hell of a lot cheaper, but this was my first real, long vacation since I graduated from college and I felt I deserved some luxury. Located two blocks from the Spanish Steps, the hotel was nestled above Via Condotti, home to luxury stores that include Prada, Armani, Hermes, and Cartier to name a few. Not that I could have afforded to shop at any of them, mind you. Although billed as a hotel, it is closer to a bed and breakfast in character and size. Rooms were a little small by U.S. standards, but beautifully furnished and with a fantastic hydro-massage shower I wish I had at home. (so I guess there is something I'd want for Xmas after all.) The price of my stay included continental breakfast in my room. Breakfast consisted of pastries, toasts (the pre-packaged kind that are hard to find in the states), juice, and espresso, with more substantial items available at an additional charge. Armed with one of their very good cappuccinos and their breakfast spread, I had enough energy to start our days, but was left with enough room for the ever-important mid-morning gelato. Prices range from lit.320,000 to lit.600,000 per night. Amenities include air conditioning, cable TV, mini bar, hair dryer, safe, and data line for doing things such as updating your diaryland diary with your fantastic travel notes before you go to sleep each night. The exchange rate while I was in Italy was more than 2,000 lire for a dollar. When compared with San Francisco, prices for dining were not nearly as expensive as I thought they would be. That said, eating in Rome involved lots of gelato; for breakfast, for snacks, and for dessert. In fact, my first meal in Italy was a gelato from a small shop on Via delle Quattro Fontane on the way to the Trevi Fountain. I had some delicious chocolate gelato while my travel companion (who is not going to be mentioned more fully within this travelogue for a variety of reasons) had pistachio. Highlights of dining in Rome included: riso (rice flavored with actual rice grains in it), pistachio and bacco (chocolate hazelnut) gelato at Giolitti;, sitting outside at Ristorante M. Agrippa, eating crispy pizza with prosciutto and drinking prosseco while looking at the pantheon as though I were in "Belly of the Architect"; having an off the beaten path cheap beer and good pizza with a bunch of locals at Baffetto; extra thin pizza with potatoes and rosemary, excellent antipasto, bruschetta with olive paste and a �99 IGT Sangiovese/Cabernet blend wine at Capranica, a very inviting wine bar. Places to Visit Of course, there were more things to do than I had time for. I may write more in-depth reviews of these items in the future, but here�s the list of things I�m glad I didn�t miss in my short visit: The Pantheon. Went inside twice, including once during a service. It�s easily the most amazing building I�ve ever seen. Best viewed when there are fewer tourists so their voices don�t echo and you can linger in peace. Free. The Roman Forum. Walked around the outskirts as the sun was setting on my first night in Rome and it set the mood for the days that followed. The amazing assortment of ruins, with some more intact than others, but all with such beauty and presence. If you�re a photography buff, bring 3 or 4 rolls of film and plan on getting here when they open at 9:00 a.m. and spending a few hours walking through it. Free. You may also pay to access the Palatine Hill area, which I will do during my next visit. The Vatican Museums and St. Peter's. I had reservations about visiting here for a variety of reasons, but it was raining on our first full day in Rome, so I was convinced to go. Now, I am glad I didn�t miss it. In addition to the Sistine Chapel, the Egyptian collection is amazing, especially the reproductions of the seraphim from Hadrian�s villa and the mummy. The restoration of the Sistine Chapel was extensive; the colors are much more vibrant and intense than you may remember from your art history textbooks. Plan on spending about 4 hours here minimum, and remember there�s no talking or flash photography in the Sistine Chapel! This is also a great place to mail your postcards from � the Vatican has its own postal service, without the long lines you�ll face elsewhere. St. Peter's is the tallest building in Rome (buildings on top of hills don't count as actually being tall!)-- you can see it in most city views. The ornate interior, and the Pieta sculpture make this a must see. Less than $10 per person for the museums; entrance to St. Peter's is free. Santa Maria de Concezione. This church was formerly a Capuchin monastery; eventually, the bones from their catacombs were used to decorate the church. It�s truly an amazing site, especially the room with death and his scythe. It�s not something you�ll see every day. Free but donations are accepted (and they need/deserve it!) Via di Condotti and the Spanish Steps. Lined with high fashion houses, the streets in this area are the place to go for some serious window-shopping. On weekend nights, the streets are lined with people well into the evening, After dark, the Spanish Steps become a gathering place, with so many people sitting on the steps that it�s hard to pass through them. Be sure to climb up the steps after dark to get a great city view. Trevi Fountain. I�d just watched La Dolce Vita a few days before arriving in Rome, so of course this had to be one of the first stops on my first night in Rome. No one told me, however, to throw coins in the fountain to ensure I�d return to Rome, so I�m hoping I can send some coins to Rome with someone soon to be tossed into the fountain on my behalf! Although I made the most of my brief time in Rome, I�d suggest a minimum stay of 6 days for a first time visit to keep you from wearing out your feet, and to allow you to get over your jet lag. At this point, I'm planning on spending a week there late next year, and would like to spend a big chunk of my sabbatical there as well (if I stay at my current company long enough to attain a sabbatical.) Expect to see more photos from this trip on the pages of my diary in the weeks to come... any comments? (0 so far) previous - next recently on almostgoldsf... in defense of an email box I came to do battle with SPAM - 2008-05-17 hello 2006 - 2005-12-31 Happy Thanksgiving - 2005-11-14 bon voyage - 2005-11-05 October already? - 2005-10-09